There are a thousand ways to sew a suit, but the final product is only as good as its most important raw material. The fabric you choose is undoubtedly the most important decision you will make when putting your new suit together. It determines how your suit will look and feel and how it will perform over time. Here is Isaac Ely, all of our bespoke shirts are designed and sewn with the finest interlining using these premium materials to ensure that you receive an outstanding product.

Tips 2: Understand The Style Of The Tailor 

Every store has its take on how a suit should be cut to flatter a man's figure. Traditional British tailors, for example, such as the prestigious shops on Savile Row, tend to cut with larger allowances (the difference between the client's body measurements and the finished product measurements) for a roomier garment with more "drape." English tailors also prefer heavier fabric, a lower gorge line (the seam where the collar meets the lapel), and a jacket with more overall structure (stiffer chest canvas, thicker shoulder pads, etc.).

Italian tailors, on the other hand, prefer lighter cloth, smaller allowances (closer to the body), a higher gorge, and a more "flexible" construction (softer shoulders, less padding, etc.).

Understanding the shop's style and strategy is critical to finding the perfect fit. Inquire if you can try on a sample garment in your closest size; this will give you an idea of how the tailor views a suit. We are committed to providing the best bespoke shirt tailoring in Kingston, Ontario, at Isaac Ely. We value all of our customers and will collaborate with you to ensure that your bespoke shirt is exactly fitted with your style.

Tips 3: Work With Your Body Type

Everyone is built differently. Unlike an off-the-rack suit, custom high-end men's clothing will be tailored to your exact proportions and style preferences. An experienced salesperson and fitter will naturally understand the styles and fabrics that work best for your body and lifestyle, whether you are short, tall, thin, stocky or anything in between. The beauty of a custom suit is that it will make your body look its best!

As a bespoke tailor, Isaac Ely ensures that the bespoke shirt or garment you wear complements your natural body posture, physique, and movement pattern. When you visit the shop, you may be asked to stand at various angles, walk around, or stand still to determine exactly what type of bespoke shirt dimensions would enhance your natural presence. Finding the right fit is half the battle, so this step is critical to ensuring that the final product is perfectly tailored to your preferences and natural shape.

Tips 4: Consider The Thread Counts

Some men believe that the higher the thread count (or "super" number), the better the fabric. This is not always the case. This number, which represents the number of fibers spun into a unit measurement of cloth, only indicates the fibers' "fineness." It can thus be used to estimate the "hand feel" and sheen of the cloth, but its inverse relationship with durability is more important.

Super 180s and above become extremely delicate. It's the polar opposite of a workhorse, and it should be reserved for guys who have 20+ suits in their rotation and want to make a statement once a month.

Invest in the most durable fabric that feels good in your hands. In reality, a "super 110s" from a high-quality mill will feel softer than a "super 180s" from a low-quality fabric house.

Furthermore, all of our custom material here in Isaac Ely is hand-cut and sewn. We concentrate on using high-quality materials that will give you an undeniable presence in any room you enter.

Tips 5: Build The Basic Foundation

It's best to keep your first suit "basic" and simple. Versatile colors, such as gray and navy blue, will serve you well because you can wear these pieces together or mix them with others you already own. Not only are these colors easier to accessorize, but they also provide a foundation for your wardrobe. It would be best to stick to the basics rather than a more daring pattern or color until your foundation is complete. The most significant advantages of purchasing "bespoke" are the fit and construction.

Tips 6: Mind The Bespoke Suit Details

You don't have to overspend on your first bespoke suit. However, one of the benefits of having your suit made to measure is that you can add details that make your suit stand out for all the right reasons. If you want to dress up your clothes, you'll have plenty of options for lining, stitching, buttons, and vents. Your tailor will be your best source of advice for what details will work best for your body, suit type, and budget, no matter what kind of high-end men's clothing you buy. 

As a dedicated bespoke shirt tailor, Isaac Ely prioritizes the client's preferences and goes to great lengths to tailor your shirt to your exact specifications and vision. We can accommodate you if you want custom buttons, collars, or cuffs.

Tips 7: Be Realistic

A new suit will not make you look like George Clooney unless you already look like George Clooney. Also, avoid chasing wrinkles. The suit is intended to look perfect on a still, standing body. All bets are off once you start moving, and the suit will crease and wrinkle in areas of motion. It's made of fabric, not magic.

Regarding comfort, there are trade-offs if you want a very slim look. You will notice the suit and lose some range of motion. This may take some time if you're not used to slim tailoring. Remember that the only way to make it "roomier" is to make it larger, which means losing some shape.

Tips 8: Have A Nice Partnership

The client-tailor relationship is a highly personal one. Each tailor has its way of doing things; what worked for some previous customers may not work for you. When selecting a wardrobe consultant or custom tailor, consider how long the company has been in business and its reputation. You may immediately feel good about the company, but it may not be the right fit in other cases. Your tailor and suit must be excellent when it comes to fit.

The Anatomy Of Your Bespoke Suit Kingston

A custom suit can help you put your best foot forward. When looking your best, you may not want to buy a suit off the rack at a chain store. Instead, you should contact IsaacEly to find the perfect suit for you.

Before you begin, you should be clear about what you want with yourself and your tailor. Determine these important considerations for yourself.

Fabrics and Patterns 

Choosing the right fabric for your suit is both important and difficult. Of course, you want a superior fit and a luxurious touch, but you also want something breathable, soft, and, most importantly, durable and long-lasting. 

• 
  Wool
• Wool is an excellent suit fabric because of its versatility and refined appearance. Wool is a natural material, which means it breathes well and can be worn in both the heat of the day and the cool of the night. Most wool requires the natural fiber to be spun, not worsted wool. Worsted wool is a compact textile that is smooth and long-lasting textile, making it ideal for everyday suits. We recommend a lower thread count for everyday use in Kingston.

Wool has many distinguishing characteristics that make it the preferred fabric for suits. It is extremely adaptable and can be worn from head to toe. It can be made into very fine and silky threads and thick, coarse yarns, allowing you to create fabrics ranging from lightweight and smooth to thick, hairy, and coarse. The higher the twist (or woven) count of your suit, the more expensive and less durable it will be, but it will be finer and lighter. Lower twist counts are typically less expensive and durable, making them ideal for daily use.

The resilience of wool is one of the main reasons we prefer it. A well-cared-for wool suit can easily last twenty or thirty years. You can even pass it down to your son when the time comes!

• Cotton
• Cotton, also made from natural fibers, is the second most popular fabric for bespoke suits. Cotton suits move and breathe well, but they crease easily, making the tailoring appear sloppy. It is, however, a flexible material, with the main advantage of being easily adaptable to all shapes and sizes.

• Polyester 
• Polyester is a low-quality fabric made of synthetic materials; usually a blend of fiber and wool, to keep the price low.

• Line
• Linen is ideal for hot climates because it is extremely breathable and far more porous than wool. However, it does not lend itself well to tailoring and can quickly become crumpled.

• Cashmere
• Cashmere, alone or in a blend, is at the higher end of the tailoring market. It can also impart an unwelcome shine to a suit as luxurious as it is. Because of its synthetic fibers and cheap appearance, this may confuse with polyester. Cashmere may not be suitable for work depending on whether you want something European looking or not, but it is a sure hit for leisure activities.

Patterns   

Patterns are up next. Possibly the most difficult part. Those with tailored suits know that you can spend hours looking through swatch books and come away knowing nothing. It's extremely difficult to imagine what will look good on your specific body type, from a small square of fabric to a suit.

Cut And Style

The three main cuts to consider are British, American, and Italian. Your nationality is irrelevant; these are the leading tailoring styles that most suit designers or tailors will adhere to. Let's look at these classic tailoring examples while keeping the body type information and advice we've already given you.

• British Cut 
• The British suit cut emphasizes functionality, durability, elegance, and style. It was originally designed for the British gentleman on the go who needed to be prepared for any weather. It's both formal and elegant. It's a style that fits closer to the body, with tight-fitting sleeves that end in cuffs and a high arm hole. Trousers have 2-3 pleats and are higher cut than other suit patterns. Consider David Beckham and Daniel Craig when picturing this timeless, iconic suit style. The British Cut can be tailored to most body types, making it an easy choice for men who prefer a more traditional look.

• American Cut
• The pioneering Brooks Brothers popularized the American suit style in the early nineteenth century. The American Cut, popular among well-to-do Ivy Leaguers, distinguished itself with a single vent in the jacket, higher armholes, straight lines, flap pockets, and natural shoulders with no padding for a softer silhouette. The original American suit pants were baggy, fit for Al Capone. However, American suits have evolved and are now extremely comfortable and forgiving to most body shapes. The American Cut, which has a single-breasted jacket with two or three buttons, is usually made from a lighter material than the heavier cloth used for the British Cut, making it ideal for warmer climates.

• Italian Cut
• The Italians evolved the British cut to accommodate more stylish trends for slim bodies and warmer climates, as they were not comfortable in the stiff and structured British cut. This popular European cut takes advantage of the smaller waist of the average European to create a dramatic inverted triangle. The Italian Cut, which is more outrageous than the classier British Cut and the more comfortable American Cut, is perhaps a bit too soon for most people and should be eased into.

Frequently Asked Questions 

Following are the popular frequently asked questions about bespoke suit Kingston and other relevant topics about it. Have a quick look below. 

Conclusion 

Choosing a bespoke suit gives you a great deal of control over the finished product, and at your fittings, you will be able to hand-pick every detail in terms of the cut, fit, and finishing touches, as well as incorporate any personal preferences. The Bespoke suit Kingston process is a marriage of your individuality and expertise, allowing us to create an exquisite suit that speaks volumes about the man who wears it.

Isaac Ely tailor offers exceptional bespoke clothing in the Kingston area and has over 30 years of experience in the garment industry. While working at upscale retail stores early in his career, Isaac learned the limitations of ready-to-wear clothing lines. Instead of buying something off the rack that may or may not fit, bespoke clothing aims to provide the ideal fit for each individual. Here at Isaac Ely, we take great care in our work because we believe that a well-fitting custom suit will make you feel unstoppable.

We hope that this guide will help you to decide what you think the best for your looks. You can now find more information on our website, IsaacEly, for more details and designs!